Enjoying the Market

There are two markets in Cap-Haitien, one that is smaller and closer to my apartment and the other that is in the center of town, offering everything you could ever need. (That’s not exactly quite true, but it’s huge). Both of these markets have their advantages; while the smaller market has fewer people and crowds, the selection is often limited. The big market has that selection but also has people everywhere all jostling for whatever it is they need. I’ve actually always enjoyed the market. In Senegal, I lived for Sundays—my village’s lumo or market days. I would be able to stock up on bananas for the kids, peanut butter or peanuts for an awesome dinner, and other fruits and veggies. Plus, there were fatayas to eat, frozen milk to gobble up and an over-stuffed car to ride. Even in Podor or Ndioum, the market was always bustling. Walking through the market and seeing the first tomatoes or lettuce of the season always brought a feeling of disbelief mixed with joy. And finding women to shop from over and over again, built up a nice report where I often got a cadeau or gift in return for my patronage.

Though not as easily, I still enjoy the markets here. Part of it is I have yet to master the art of Creole bargaining, although I have been improving each time. Part of it is that they are different enough where I still haven’t found that good ‘ole market rhythm. However, I do enjoy walking around the market, seeing all the oranges and limes and the bright splotches of tomatoes. It is mostly women who work at the market, selling produce or fish or dry goods like rice. So, I enjoy visiting with them as well. I call them Madame, they call me Cherie and I buy my week’s worth of eggs, rice, beans, etc. While there aren’t fatayas here to eat, I have been exploring my options for my go to market snack. There is something called pate pike which is a hot-pocket like item stuffed with a spicy sauce. Fried plantains are also plentiful and each vendor seems to have their own topping.

Exploring the markets, I have wandered upon the area the sells charcoal, mounds of them covering the ground while you walk in between them. The meat area will have pieces of chicken for sale-even a whole chicken if you get it early enough—as well as mutton and beef. The fish market is teeming with the mornings catches- various fish caught with nets, spears and poles. There are always ladies with large basins next to them full of live crab or shrimp. Besides fresh food, there are the dry good vendors who have large sacks full of rice, beans, corn, flour, pasta plus the other items needed to make a tasty meal. Then there are the other vendors who sell soap, powdered milk, paper towels and the like.

At times, the market can seem like a sensory overload. There, fish mixes with citrus, mixes with old vegetables, mixes with garbage. It’s not a pleasant smell and it can easily overwhelm you. Plus, there are always people around, pushing and shoving and working their way through the narrow paths. Plus the noise that comes from small spaces, people shouting and trying to get your attention. But, if you’re able to zone out and push all of the distractions and unpleasant things aside you just might be able to enjoy it.