what is a talibe?
they are little boys (usually ages 5-15) who go to koranic school to learn the koran. most of these boys live at the school under the supervision of a imam or marabou (religous leader and teacher). during the day when they are not in class these boys will go throughout towns begging for food and money which is then given to the marabou and is (supposed to be but never enforced) used to clothe, feed, and raise the talibes. however, this is rarely the case, especially in large cities. marabous often take the money themselves and beat talibes who only bring back food or not enough money. (many talibes have quotas they need to fill by the end of the day). as a result, these boys are often the most malnourished and overlooked part of senegal. they sleep in overcrowded, dirty spaces and usually just on the floor with no mats or blankets. it's rare to see a talibe wearing shoes or clothes that properly fit them.
as a toubak, i have a huge target on my back for talibes, as does any visitor. this often means we get followed anywhere we go by one or two whenever we are in dakar, saint-louis, etc. it's frustrating because while you feel so incredibly bad for these kids who are forced to beg, you are also extremely annoyed because they do not leave you alone until you give them something. this is one of the many many many reasons it is hard for me to accept a culture that condones begging and neglects children.
so, lauren and i decided to do something for these guys. we had a few mosquito nets left over from our distributions and we decided to give these nets to the various koranic schools in podor. though podor is a smaller city (about the size of platteville) there are over 400 talibes, about two thirds are 12 and under. lauren went around to each of the schools, talked to the marabous and tallied up the number of talibes (aka the tali' tally) i came up for a few days and we were able to distribute to all twelve schools.
this was a great project for me for many reasons. not only were talibes given mosquito nets and now completely covered at night from malaria, but they were also given medicine for schistosomiasis from the health center at the same time. we got to spend time with each school, play with the boys, and talk to the marabou's about malaria and taking care of the boys. in general, the distribution went really well i think it will be a great help for these schools.
it was also really interesting to see the differences between the schools. there were a few school that were clean, had sleeping spaces for each boy, had a schedule for class, fieldwork, etc and the marabous knew each and every kid's name. then there were marabous who had no idea what kids were in their school, were overcrowded, dirty, didn't take care of their kids and even hit the kids in front of us. one even started pulling boys off the street so that we would give them more nets. it was so incredible to see such great differences between schools, even in a small city like podor. it was really obvious which marabous took care of their boys and took their job seriously and lived out the koran truely, while others just took advantage of their power position within their communities.
at the end, the boys were what really mattered and now when we're in podor, we are loved by the talibes and they no longer hassel us but follow us around because they're so thankful. it isn't much, just a few mosquito nets, but for these kids it made all the difference.
cheers!
Monday, February 22, 2010
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
when accidents happen
i know, two posts in one day! i came to the cyber prepared to write about jabbes then something happened on the way here that i wanted to write about too so my gift to you, a blog posting two...
you often see the aftermaths of accidents here; a smashed up car next to a tree, a turned over motorcycle... accidents happen all the time here and are always really really dangerous and violent. i've seen semi trucks turned over because they were overloaded. i've seen--and been in--alhams that are full of thirty people and come sooo close to tipping. these always make me nervous because if something did happen- the alham i was in did tip over- what would happen? people would of course be hurt, some severely and some probably would be killed. forget help- the emergency services we have in the states don't exist here so anyone who couldn't walk away from the crash would probably not make it. needless to say that i travel tense and anxious until i get to my destination.
now, today i'm in a sept place on my way to podor to do a mosquito net distribution to the different koranic schools with lauren (more info on this in the next post i promise) and we're getting to one of the dips in the road. these dips are like a bridge in that they have steeped sides, but there's no body of water. as we're crossing, a two donkey charette is coming the other way. suddenly the charette driver loses control and the charette- and occupants- go over the side. donkeys and cart, everything flips over. as i was in the front seat i saw the whle thing happen and of course gasped, my heart thumping. immediately the driver stops and runs out of the car over to the charette. meanwhile i quickly open the rest of the doors (because they can only be opened from the outside in most cases) and everyone rushes out of the car to help. meanwhile a few other charettes come up, people bailing off to run over and help. luckily, no one was hurt, just a few scratches. the donkeys were okay two and were removed from the harness. five guys turned the charette over while the ladies picked up the articles that were thrown about.
while i was thankful that no one was seriously hurt, i also realized how fortunate that it was only a charette. we were only about 3 k from podor so we would be able to get help right away, but still. i am so happy that everyone rushed to help them though. no one decided to stand and watch, everyone acted which i think is a testimate to their characters. it's so important to help your neighbor here and yes, usually this doesn't ring true as much as today but when something like a charette tips over there will always be people to help. i will rest a little bit easier, though my heart is still pounding a bit.
off to go distribute nets!
jaime
you often see the aftermaths of accidents here; a smashed up car next to a tree, a turned over motorcycle... accidents happen all the time here and are always really really dangerous and violent. i've seen semi trucks turned over because they were overloaded. i've seen--and been in--alhams that are full of thirty people and come sooo close to tipping. these always make me nervous because if something did happen- the alham i was in did tip over- what would happen? people would of course be hurt, some severely and some probably would be killed. forget help- the emergency services we have in the states don't exist here so anyone who couldn't walk away from the crash would probably not make it. needless to say that i travel tense and anxious until i get to my destination.
now, today i'm in a sept place on my way to podor to do a mosquito net distribution to the different koranic schools with lauren (more info on this in the next post i promise) and we're getting to one of the dips in the road. these dips are like a bridge in that they have steeped sides, but there's no body of water. as we're crossing, a two donkey charette is coming the other way. suddenly the charette driver loses control and the charette- and occupants- go over the side. donkeys and cart, everything flips over. as i was in the front seat i saw the whle thing happen and of course gasped, my heart thumping. immediately the driver stops and runs out of the car over to the charette. meanwhile i quickly open the rest of the doors (because they can only be opened from the outside in most cases) and everyone rushes out of the car to help. meanwhile a few other charettes come up, people bailing off to run over and help. luckily, no one was hurt, just a few scratches. the donkeys were okay two and were removed from the harness. five guys turned the charette over while the ladies picked up the articles that were thrown about.
while i was thankful that no one was seriously hurt, i also realized how fortunate that it was only a charette. we were only about 3 k from podor so we would be able to get help right away, but still. i am so happy that everyone rushed to help them though. no one decided to stand and watch, everyone acted which i think is a testimate to their characters. it's so important to help your neighbor here and yes, usually this doesn't ring true as much as today but when something like a charette tips over there will always be people to help. i will rest a little bit easier, though my heart is still pounding a bit.
off to go distribute nets!
jaime
going on a berry hunt
there is an area just a short walk from the village where everyone gets their firewood, there's a few mango trees, lots of other trees and right by the river after the rainy season beans and corn are planted. i love this area for many reasons; it's a quiet place to go for a walk, there are plenty of shady areas to sit and watch the river, it's proof that trees do grow when you don't cut them down, and there are trees that grow this weird fruit thing called jabbe that are everywhere. jabbe season just wrapped up for us and these past few weeks i would often take whatever small children were around, a bowl, and a large stick and head out to the jabbe trees.
the jabbe tree is like most trees that grow in the fuuta; there are thorns. and not just any thorns but little thorns that are shaped like hooks. so not only do you get stabbed by the thorns, they refuse to let you go. hence the large stick. when you're collecting jabbes it's best to just whack the tree and let the jabbes fall to the ground, where usually safe from thorns you can collect them almost pain free. so my job, as the only person over the age of five on these outings, is to beat the trees while the little munchkins gather up the jabbes. this goes on for about an hour or two until we've filled up the bowl. then we head back to the village, usually singing and me leading like the pied piper. once home, we deal out the jabbes and feast.
the first few trips it was just me and silleye who attches himself to my hip when i'm in the village. on our way home silleye would usually get tired (or lazy) so i'd carry him on my back where he imediately would go to sleep. then as our activities were noticed by more and more mothers (aka banel's going away for a couple of hours, let's dump the kids on her!) the number of kids grew so that i'd have anywhere from five to twelve kids with me. the more the kids, the louder the parade back to the village and the more the mothers would smile and laugh. the more i'd smile and laugh too.
now that the jabbes are over, you can only buy them at the markets, and so the trips have started to die down. but i still love going to the mango trees and just watch the river float on by...
the jabbe tree is like most trees that grow in the fuuta; there are thorns. and not just any thorns but little thorns that are shaped like hooks. so not only do you get stabbed by the thorns, they refuse to let you go. hence the large stick. when you're collecting jabbes it's best to just whack the tree and let the jabbes fall to the ground, where usually safe from thorns you can collect them almost pain free. so my job, as the only person over the age of five on these outings, is to beat the trees while the little munchkins gather up the jabbes. this goes on for about an hour or two until we've filled up the bowl. then we head back to the village, usually singing and me leading like the pied piper. once home, we deal out the jabbes and feast.
the first few trips it was just me and silleye who attches himself to my hip when i'm in the village. on our way home silleye would usually get tired (or lazy) so i'd carry him on my back where he imediately would go to sleep. then as our activities were noticed by more and more mothers (aka banel's going away for a couple of hours, let's dump the kids on her!) the number of kids grew so that i'd have anywhere from five to twelve kids with me. the more the kids, the louder the parade back to the village and the more the mothers would smile and laugh. the more i'd smile and laugh too.
now that the jabbes are over, you can only buy them at the markets, and so the trips have started to die down. but i still love going to the mango trees and just watch the river float on by...
Monday, January 11, 2010
au coeur de pete
these past few months, one of my favorite activities i've been doing is a monthly radio show with a few other volunteers, au coeur de pete (in the heart of pete. it's a play off a really really popular brazilian soap opera they play here). our show is on 102 fm radio communitaire de pete (pete being the town's name though it is also fart in french. hehehe. yea, that doesn't get old for me.) me, justin, marisa, and sarah go once a month and tape two shows which are played for that month on every tuesday afternoon. the shows basically consist of us greeting people in the area, playing american music (our theme songs are creedence and journey. with a distant chant of usa! usa! usa! in the background. i kid, i kid.) though everyone here is all about the phil collins which we do play just for them. in between songs we do skits and lessons about various topics from malaria, hiv/aids, breastfeeding, vaccinations, etc to environmental issues like the importance of trees and nursery building. everything is in pulaar which is also a great way for us to practice our language skills and writing in pulaar.
although my village doesn't get the station (sadly we're out of range and only get the saint-louis stations) the feedback we've gotten from people is really good. people will tell us they heard our program and then sum up the lesson or comment on some of the characters. everyone loves it when we greet them on the radio because they get to hear their name and sound important. we've also started taking requests for music. more dance, less classic rock. all in all it's a great way for us to spread health and environmental messages; more people hear it and because it's on the radio and not in the village via impromptu meeting, people are more likely to really take the lessons to heart.
to more radio programs, healthy babies, and mosquito nets... this is banel mall signing off.
cheers!
jaime
although my village doesn't get the station (sadly we're out of range and only get the saint-louis stations) the feedback we've gotten from people is really good. people will tell us they heard our program and then sum up the lesson or comment on some of the characters. everyone loves it when we greet them on the radio because they get to hear their name and sound important. we've also started taking requests for music. more dance, less classic rock. all in all it's a great way for us to spread health and environmental messages; more people hear it and because it's on the radio and not in the village via impromptu meeting, people are more likely to really take the lessons to heart.
to more radio programs, healthy babies, and mosquito nets... this is banel mall signing off.
cheers!
jaime
Thursday, December 24, 2009
really band aid?
i know that i have neglected my blogger duties and haven't posted in a while. sorry...
i'm currently in dakar preparing for christmas with a few friends. we're going to cook dinner at a friend's apartment (ham, duck-with beak and feet attached in honor of a christmas story, among other amazing things. like cheesecake with blueberries (this is the beauty of dakar). while we were starting the day off, joey turned on the christmas tunes and do they know it's christmas by band aid came on. we sat there and listened to the lyrics (which i'll post below) and couldn't help laugh uncontrollably at the irony of the song and our situation as well as how bad the song actually is.
here it is: (with my comments)
t's Christmastime
There's no need to be afraid (cuz it's not halloween? is santa really michael myers?)
At Christmastime, we let in light and we banish shade (okay, in this country, banishing shade is a bad idea. and when is shade
the opposite of light?)
And in our world of plenty we can spread a smile of joy
Throw your arms around the world at Christmastime (hands across america anyone?)
But say a prayer (oh dear here we go...)
Pray for the other ones (the others? like ben and jacob? better not tell locke)
At Christmastime it's hard, but when you're having fun
There's a world outside your window (go take a look)
And it's a world of dread and fear (sike! run back and hide!)
Where the only water flowing is the bitter sting of tears (wait....isn't christmas supposed to be full of joy? not bitter tears)
And the Christmas bells that ring there are the clanging (christmas bells are good)
chimes of doom (dun dun dun!)
Well tonight thank God it's them instead of you (lucky, lucky you)
And there won't be snow in Africa this Christmastime (no snow? wait, i thought africa was supposed to be a winter wonderland)
The greatest gift they'll get this year is life (isn't that the greatest gift of all?)
(Oooh) Where nothing ever grows (well...)
No rain nor rivers flow (then what have i been swimming in?)
Do they know it's Christmastime at all? (if not, then there is a weird facination with a guy in a beard and red suit in dakar)
(Here's to you) raise a glass for everyone
(Here's to them) underneath that burning sun (now that's just mean.)
Do they know it's Christmastime at all?
Feed the world
Feed the world
Feed the world
Let them know it's Christmastime again
Feed the world
Let them know it's Christmastime again
so there it is...full of christmas cheer right? i know that the song was intended to raise money for food aid, which it did. but really? not exactly the most tactful song. and as pcv's currently living in africa we can't help but highlight this song. nothing like a little cultural insensitivity to put you in the holly jolly mood.
but i'm loving christmas in dakar. the streets are decked out. and there's a bustling going on that only goes on during the holidays. plus, i've gotten to decorate two (two!) christmas trees, though small. but i love trees. and just being in a little america is helping the homesickness. though what i wouldn't give to be shoveling snow, coming inside and drinking a peppermint paddy, snuggling by the fire, and watching a christmas story in lounge pants.
so i might not be home for christmas, but it's in my heart and i'll be thinking of all the wonderful people in my life and counting the many many blessings that make my life so darned wonderful.
merry merry merry christmas!
love, peace, and goodwill to you and you and you!
jaime
i'm currently in dakar preparing for christmas with a few friends. we're going to cook dinner at a friend's apartment (ham, duck-with beak and feet attached in honor of a christmas story, among other amazing things. like cheesecake with blueberries (this is the beauty of dakar). while we were starting the day off, joey turned on the christmas tunes and do they know it's christmas by band aid came on. we sat there and listened to the lyrics (which i'll post below) and couldn't help laugh uncontrollably at the irony of the song and our situation as well as how bad the song actually is.
here it is: (with my comments)
t's Christmastime
There's no need to be afraid (cuz it's not halloween? is santa really michael myers?)
At Christmastime, we let in light and we banish shade (okay, in this country, banishing shade is a bad idea. and when is shade
the opposite of light?)
And in our world of plenty we can spread a smile of joy
Throw your arms around the world at Christmastime (hands across america anyone?)
But say a prayer (oh dear here we go...)
Pray for the other ones (the others? like ben and jacob? better not tell locke)
At Christmastime it's hard, but when you're having fun
There's a world outside your window (go take a look)
And it's a world of dread and fear (sike! run back and hide!)
Where the only water flowing is the bitter sting of tears (wait....isn't christmas supposed to be full of joy? not bitter tears)
And the Christmas bells that ring there are the clanging (christmas bells are good)
chimes of doom (dun dun dun!)
Well tonight thank God it's them instead of you (lucky, lucky you)
And there won't be snow in Africa this Christmastime (no snow? wait, i thought africa was supposed to be a winter wonderland)
The greatest gift they'll get this year is life (isn't that the greatest gift of all?)
(Oooh) Where nothing ever grows (well...)
No rain nor rivers flow (then what have i been swimming in?)
Do they know it's Christmastime at all? (if not, then there is a weird facination with a guy in a beard and red suit in dakar)
(Here's to you) raise a glass for everyone
(Here's to them) underneath that burning sun (now that's just mean.)
Do they know it's Christmastime at all?
Feed the world
Feed the world
Feed the world
Let them know it's Christmastime again
Feed the world
Let them know it's Christmastime again
so there it is...full of christmas cheer right? i know that the song was intended to raise money for food aid, which it did. but really? not exactly the most tactful song. and as pcv's currently living in africa we can't help but highlight this song. nothing like a little cultural insensitivity to put you in the holly jolly mood.
but i'm loving christmas in dakar. the streets are decked out. and there's a bustling going on that only goes on during the holidays. plus, i've gotten to decorate two (two!) christmas trees, though small. but i love trees. and just being in a little america is helping the homesickness. though what i wouldn't give to be shoveling snow, coming inside and drinking a peppermint paddy, snuggling by the fire, and watching a christmas story in lounge pants.
so i might not be home for christmas, but it's in my heart and i'll be thinking of all the wonderful people in my life and counting the many many blessings that make my life so darned wonderful.
merry merry merry christmas!
love, peace, and goodwill to you and you and you!
jaime
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